SS25 Couture Lookbook

Birds of Paradise fanning otherworldly plumage, National Geographic covers of ancient trees scraping azure skies, thousands of butterflies taking flight – this season the Amazon Rainforest lines the walls of the London atelier where the couture collection is crafted by hand.

This landscape of natural wonders can be seen in look 12 as dazzling morning light –handled in a fine mesh of crystals – breaks the rainforest’s canopy of emerald green double-satin. Or in look 3, an invisible tulle dress with contoured corset and full, meandering hips. It’s hand embroidered with crystal tassels that flow from clavicle to floor, cutting through silhouette as rivers do the land, carving dense terrain with watery ribbons.

Flow and restraint. Light and dark. Flora and fauna. In exploring the Amazon’s dualities, the tiniest influences are as essential as the grandest. That’s why look 13 celebrates the humble spider’s web (the rainforest is home to about 3,6000 species). Here, irregular gossamer strands handspun from crystal xilions trace a tonal bodysuit. While look 4 captures the fluttering blues of the morpho butterfly. Intricate threadwork – taking the embroidery artisans 400 hours – and artful draping recall its hypnotic wings.

Entering such a mythical garden of paradise is the gesture behind the collection’s final look. Biot feathers and hand-embroideries fall as a double duchesse satin wedding gown cascades into flowing silk chiffon –purity, lightness, fragility.